Mini-Mooning in St Barths
Issue 008: Third-wheel with my husband and I at Eden Rock, the chic Caribbean resort that we jetted to after our recent nuptials.
Introduction
If you haven’t already seen the ever-so-slightly terrifying video of a plane landing at the airport in St Barths, take a second to do so now. Only able to handle light aircraft, the small landing strip is cut into a steep hillside, meaning that the planes have to skirt dangerously close to a road that runs above, then drop sharply down to meet the runway and still have enough space to brake in time. As passengers on one of those planes in early March, my husband Jonathan and I can confirm that the experience is not dissimilar to those rollercoaster rides when your stomach ends up in your throat momentarily. Quite a rush. Not recommended for the aerophobic.
We were arriving into the famed French-Caribbean island for our “mini-moon”—a honeymoon for those of us strapped for time and/or funds. The three-night getaway followed our November wedding in Miami (where Jonathan’s family are located) and pre-Christmas marriage celebration in the UK (where mine are based), both of which were wonderfully beautiful and so much fun, but also quite stressful and more expensive than we had anticipated. So when invited to check out Eden Rock, another entrant on the World’s 50 Best Hotels list for 2025 (I’m really making my way through these), we decided to treat this as the celebratory down-time that most couples enjoy after their weddings (which, we discovered, are a very necessary break).
St Barths
Part of the Leeward Islands chain in the northern Caribbean, this small island has a big reputation as a bougie party paradise, where the ultra-rich anchor their mega yachts, and order bottle service at the exorbitantly priced restaurants and clubs. It’s effectively St Tropez in the Caribbean, and has the same distinctly French flavor but with year-round fair weather. Technically Saint Barthélemy, the island was first inhabited by the Arawak and Carib Indians, then stumbled upon in 1493 by Christopher Columbus, who named it after his brother, Bartolomeo. Despite French colonization attempts in the 17th century, both the Swedish and British controlled St Barths for periods before the island returned to France in 1878. It officially became a French Department in 1946.
From New York, this little slice of heaven is not actually that easy to get to. Due to the aforementioned airport size, international flights have to arrive into nearby St Martin (or Sint Maarten, since it’s half Dutch), then travelers have to switch to a light aircraft for an extra 20-minute hop over to St Barths. There are a few direct flights to St Martin from NYC, but they are not cheap, so we also transferred via DC on the way back—saving us a pretty penny, but resulting in an entire day’s worth of travel.
The hilly island is surrounded by bays and inlets with white-sand beaches stretched between rocky outcrops—some of which are easily accessible, while others require a hike to reach. Gorgeous and capacious villas step up the lushly forested slopes, connected to the coastal hamlets by precipitously steep, narrow roads. It’s every inch the vision of paradise, if paradise for you involves rubbing shoulders with some of the world’s wealthiest people and gawking at their lavish lifestyles. Visitors are a mix of old and new money (and it’s easy to tell the difference), while most of the resort staff are French émigrés or locals.
Had we been staying longer, we would’ve embarked upon one of the remote beach hikes. But the modus operandi for this short trip was to relax, so we barely ventured away from Eden Rock except to explore the immediate vicinity, and to spend an evening in the island’s main town.
Gustavia
The island’s capital—named after King Gustav III of Sweden—is situated on its southwest coast, surrounding a marina filled with some of the largest sailing boats I’ve ever seen. Red-roofed buildings step up the hillsides on either side of the water, framing the collection of yachts lined up side by side. We were visiting right before the St Barths Bucket Regatta, a three-day sailing race, so the harbor was even busier than usual. So full, in fact, that some late arrivals had to drop anchor in adjacent bays (can you imagine?! How embarrassing!).
We took a 20-minute taxi from St Jean, where we were staying, over to Gustavia one evening and made it just in time for sunset. We strolled along Rue de la Republique, flanked by all of the luxury fashion stores, and stopped for a cocktail at Arawak Café next to Hermès. Our dinner reservation wasn’t until 8.30pm, so inevitably (because it’s us) we embarked on a bar crawl around the town. This yo-yo’d from ridiculously overpriced espresso martinis at a speakeasy called Le Clandestin, where it was just us, a group of finance bros, and a live singer, to relatively cheap spritzes at a low-key Mexican spot, Cantina.
Even more cocktails were enjoyed during dinner at Bonito, a French-Latin restaurant with a gorgeous view over the harbor. The food was good, not great—definitely not worth the bill total (though, we asked ourselves repeatedly, is anything here?). Embarrassingly, we almost forgot to pay the check (I’m so used to the American way of doing it now, and we’d had several drinks by this point) but the server luckily caught us as we were getting in the cab. We shared a taxi home with another couple, who also happened to be from Miami and staying in the St Jean area, so that at least helped a little with one expense.
Eden Rock
Positioned on a promontory that juts out into St Jean bay, Eden Rock is easily one of the most iconic spots in St Barths. Aviator Rémy de Haenen was the first to build on the rocky outcrop in the 1940s, and by 1953, the structure was transformed into an exclusive bed-and-breakfast. Continuous expansion over the years saw the addition of several suites in an around the “rock,” and the shift of its restaurant from a lofty position to a new spot beside the beach. More guest accommodation was built along the stretch of sand to the west, bringing the total number of rooms, suites, and villas to a pleasantly manageable 37.
The hotel currently sits under the Oetker Collection management umbrella, but remains privately owned. It’s a hot ticket, and books up incredibly quickly—particularly during the winter months—operating at full capacity for the majority of the year.
The prime beachfront it occupies is pristine, and the water is the shade of turquoise that’s almost blindingly bright. A cleverly branded pontoon is positioned a couple of hundred feet offshore, which was a popular spot for guests to swim out to and pose upon. It was fun to watch the small planes take off from the nearby airport (a five-minute drive away) over the water. I made many attempts to get the perfect shot of a plane directly over the pontoon, but I was never quick enough with my camera, and this became a running joke between Jonathan and I. I ended up Photoshopping it (scroll down to see).
For the two of us, this turned out to be an ideal mini-moon destination. There was enough to do if we wanted to, but also no real need to leave the beach at all. The weather was deliciously warm and we were able to catch enough rays to look and feel like we’d been away, which we were both desperately craving by March after a frigid, grey NYC winter. The resort was stylish and elevated, so we could dress up for dinner, but not so stuffy that we felt awkward walking around in our swimwear during the day.
Architecture & Design
With its distinctive red corrugated-metal roofs, exposed coral stone walls, wooden shutters, and stainless steel accents, the Eden Rock buildings straddle traditional Caribbean architecture and a more contemporary style. The oldest section of the property, perched up on the rock, is a St Barths landmark thanks to its distinguishing silhouette. The semi-circular portion contains suites with panoramic vistas, while the pitched-roof pinnacle that once housed the restaurant is now a huge villa with views on all sides.
Owner Jane Matthews, who runs the Eden Rock Design Group, worked with Martin Brudnizki Design Studio in London and Architectonik in St Barths to fully overhaul the interiors in 2020. Across the property, nautical details like porthole windows, jetty-style boardwalks, and lights that resemble scaled-down lighthouse beacons all add character without becoming kitsch. The landscape is impeccably manicured, and the winding pathways through the grass to the rooms are illuminated at night by trails of short lamp posts.
Like many of today’s luxury hotels (see Palazzo Avino), and many high-end fashion houses before them, Eden Rock has cleverly chosen a signature color and fully embraced it across architecture, interiors, and branding. The vivid shade of crimson appears everywhere: from balustrades and gates, to lounger covers, room key chains, and even the plastic cups for beachside cocktails. This is so smart as a marketing strategy, as it allows the property to be immediately identifiable from practically anywhere.
Guest Rooms
The boutique hotel is largely divided into the accommodation on the “rock” side, and the guest rooms and villas along the beachfront. We stayed in a Plantation Room on the ground floor that opened to a lawn behind the beach bar, with the sand and sea just in view beyond. Each of the buildings in this collection has an upper floor housing slightly pricier Beach Rooms, which have a better ocean view. Ours was spacious, warmly lit, and decorated in a contemporary beachy style created by wood paneling and French burgundy stone floors. We benefitted from a covered front terrace with armchairs, where we drank our complimentary Krug, plus a pair of loungers further out on the grass for reclining. The bathroom was particularly roomy, with a double vanity, rain shower, and a separate toilet (which, as we’ve discussed before, is important!).
I was offered a quick glimpse at a couple of the rock-side suites too, which were imbued with a more Colonial look and feel by way of whitewashed wood interiors. All of these are named individually, and come in different shapes, sizes, and styles—so potential occupants can chose depending on their preferences. One of those I toured was charmingly compact, but had a large terrace and a bathroom cut into the exposed rock, while another was triangular in shape, and boasted a giant bathroom with a sunken tub and its own fitness area.
For frequently returning guests, special red plaques engraved with their names are hung beside the entrance to their suites to signal their occupancy—a touch that I’ve no doubt is highly prized by ER fans. The attentive senior staff are also on a first-name basis with repeat-stay couples and families, and their rooms are made-up based on their pre-determined needs.
Eating & Drinking
The principal dining area at Eden Rock is Sand Bar, the open-air beachside restaurant where breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily. With a view of the bright blue waters, it’s hard not to be impressed by the airy split-level space—although the rattan monkeys hanging from the ceiling had a slightly threatening aura.
Upon our arrival around lunchtime, we were offered a complimentary welcome cocktail (a must for any hotel IMO). When I ordered my club sandwich without egg, the server asked if I’d like the chef to remember this request for the duration of my stay. I did, thank you, although I felt bad that I didn’t end up ordering it again—despite it being delicious. At breakfast, the buffet spread offered adequate choice, but the açai bowl on the a-la-carte menu that was sensationally laced with peanut butter was the highlight. Dinner at Sand Bar was a multi-course affair, involving fresh seafood prepared in typical French style with a lot of butter. We were so full afterwards that had to walk off the meal along the beach for almost an hour.
Club Remy is the indoor, slightly more formal portion of the establishment, and is set up for pre- or post-dinner cocktails within a cozy boudoir-esque space featuring, you guessed it, red decor and lighting. Here, the espresso martinis are served in glassware that resembles a small teacup atop a long stem—much to Jonathan’s delight.
We also ordered food to the beach a couple of times, from a more limited menu that included pizza (yummy!), burgers, fries, and other typical snack fare. The beach cocktails from the small bar behind the loungers were also tasty, but we mainly stuck to sipping Coronas while we basked in the sun.
For those wishing to venture out on foot, St Jean has a few options depending on interests and budget. Next door to Eden Rock is the infamous Nikki Beach, where DJs spin all day and night, and pricey bottles are delivered for as long as you request them. Not our vibe for this trip, or ever TBH. Further along the beach to the east, a more laid-back, Tulum-esque spot can be found at the Gyp Sea hotel’s beach bar and restaurant. In the town “center,” if it can be called that, there’s a chill and (relatively) cheap bar called Le Piment where we found the Gyp Sea staff after their shifts (always a good sign), and a nightclub named Modjo that drew a very mixed crowd late at night, but was a fun time.
Amenities
During our stay, we were each treated to an hour-long Bliss massage at the spa, located at the top of Eden Rock, which was much needed and appreciated. We missed the morning yoga sessions, which are hosted on a raised deck overlooking the sea, and did not use the small but chicly designed gym tucked into the rock. (Anyone who uses the gym on their mini-moon, honeymoon, or any kind of “moon” should go to jail. There are much better ways to work up a sweat!)
While there’s no communal swimming pool on the main site (some of the larger suites and villas have their own), the sea is literally right there, and it’s warm and clear enough that it may as well be a pool. Loungers are lined up along the sand, and we were guided to the same pair each time we tipped up. There appeared to be plenty of equipment for water sports, from inflatables to paddleboards and even Seabobs. We watched a child struggle with a paddleboard for quite some time before someone came and took it off her—perhaps a little more attention could’ve been paid there?
Villas
One morning, while Jonathan was sleeping in, I was given a tour around three of the many villas around the island that Eden Rock manages as part of its portfolio, for guests who want a more residential experience, more privacy, or both. This excursion with head of sales and marketing, Mareike Hermann, provided a chance to see a little more of St Barths, as we drove between three properties spread in different locations.
The first stop was Palm Beach Villa in Lorient, the next bay along from St Jean. This contemporary beachside residence has a minimalist sensibility and a symmetrical layout, organized around its outdoor spaces including a raised infinity pool that stretches towards the sea, and several covered outdoor dining and lounge areas. The interiors feature dark woods and green tones, leaning into the tropical setting without going overboard, which I always appreciate.
Villa deux, named Maison Saline, was tucked away from civilization close to the town and beach of the same name, towards the south coast. Reached via a rather bumpy track, the brand-new residence comprises a series of rooms in separate pavilions that all open to the central pool and terrace. The aesthetic here is more bohemian and “worldly,” with plenty of rattan furniture, patterned pastel-hued upholstery, scalloped shapes, and quirky details like chairs with elephant-shaped armrests. The feminine touches are evident, and this would make a very cute spot for a bachelorette party. Cool details include mechanized panels that retract to fully open the bathrooms to the outdoors.
Last but certainly not least, the insanely lavish Villa Embrace overlooks Gustavia from its lofty perch, spanning five stories that cling to the rock face and project towards the sea, via a series of stepped terraces with multiple pools. This home is filled with a remarkable collection of contemporary art—including several Warhols—and its many bedrooms are each accented with a different primary color to contrast the minimalist yet simultaneously flashy decor. A glass elevator connects the levels, and the view improves as one ascends all the way up to the primary suite at the very top.
If I had to choose from the three, I would probably stay at Palm Beach Villa for its contemporary aesthetic, beach proximity, and overall relaxed vibe that felt best suited to the location.
Swag
We weren’t quite prepared (and neither was our luggage) for the amount of gifts bestowed upon us by Eden Rock. Almost every time we left our room, we’d return to find something new waiting for us. Upon arrival, branded weekend bags, refillable water bottles, pencil cases embroidered with our initials were waiting for us on the bed, while red and white flip-flops were ready for us on the floor. Terry-cloth washbags with toiletries and nail kits were provided in the bathroom, while a bottle of Krug champagne, madeleines, fruit and other snacks were ready for us to tuck into.
Later, we arrived back to find a trail of petals to the bed, two pairs of “Mr & Mr” embroidered slippers placed neatly on cushioned footpads, and a framed photograph of ourselves from our wedding that presumably they’d printed from Instagram. (This appears to be a new trend: I also found a picture of myself in my room at the Rosewood São Paulo.) Our absolute favorite gifts were the custom Diptyque candle, “Ylang,” and matching pillow spray, which fragranced the room and now transport our senses right back to St Barths whenever we smell them. If there are any extra of these laying around, please let us know…
Unfortunately, the baseball caps we were given before departure were too similar to the MAGA designs (the one downside to the red branding), and the only thing we didn’t nab that we had our eyes on was the gorgeous Assouline book created for Eden Rock’s 70th anniversary. Given everything we received, I’m more than happy to purchase this tome myself (especially since it was written by my new fave, Vassi Chamberlain, who I met whilst in St Lucia!).
Also! A month after we’d been home, we received a postcard from the hotel with a hand-written note saying they missed us and hoped we’d be back soon. Now that is attention to detail. These small gestures all added up, and contributed to an incredible overall experience and a mini-moon that we will never forget. A beautiful setting and great service are expected when splurging on a high-end hotel. But a truly personalized experience that leaves guests feeling spoiled, appreciated, and bowled-over by the level of commitment to delivering much more than you ever thought you wanted is the mark of real luxury today.
Thank Yous
Extra-special gratitude to everyone involved in making this trip happen, because it was so personal and unlocked new core memories for the two of us. Firstly, the Perowne International team—Nicole Vassallo, Katie Sutherland, Morgan Connaghan—thank you a) for the invitation, and b) for bringing it to fruition despite multiple date changes, availability issues, and a long back-and-forth. Merci beaucoup to Eden Rock general manager Fabrice Moizan for taking such great care of us, and along with Camille Francoual, being such great dinner company. Mareike Hermann, thank you for showing me the resort and the island, lending your knowledge, and answering all of my annoying questions. And of course, thank you endlessly to my husband, Jonathan Marotto, for being the best travel companion. I can’t wait to share so many more adventures with you. D x
i'm a sucker for a signature color (baseball cap notwithstanding hahaha). looks like such an amazing trip!