La Dolce Vita on Lake Como
Issue 009: An abundance of glitz and Aperol Spritzes at Grand Hotel Tremezzo.
Introduction
“La Dolce Vita” gets thrown around a lot when discussing Italian travel destinations. “The Sweet Life” indeed encapsulates the mornings spent languidly sipping a cappuccino while watching the world wake up, before days strolling around tiny historic villages either side of three-hour lunches. Then there’s evenings devoted to aperitivo drinks sipped in front of a gorgeous sunset view, and nights indulging in decadent pasta, vino, and gelato. But the phrase also hints at a glamor that only Italy offers. This lifestyle was captured in the 1960 Federico Fellini film of the same name, and its principles of enjoyment, relaxation, and being present hit particularly hard today. So maybe it’s overused, but it feels appropriate for this particular trip. Get into it!
I have been traveling to Milan in April for the annual Salone del Mobile furniture fair and is adjacent events since I was an editorial assistant at Dezeen, many moons ago. Initially coming from London, and more recently from NYC, I’ve always tried to use the opportunity to explore Italy either before or after the design week frenzy—tacking on visits to Cinque Terre, Rome, Venice, Tuscany, and more over the years. In 2025, I was invited to stay at Grand Hotel Tremezzo on Lake Como, and since I haven’t visited the area for a decade, this seemed like fate. I flew overnight to Malpensa, which is just over an hour’s drive to the lake’s southern end, and caught the sun’s rise over the hilltops as we ascended onto the narrow mountain roads. A perfect start to an all-too-brief, two-night stay.
Lake Como
Is there anywhere more glamorous than Lake Como? Okay, maybe the French Riviera, the Swiss ski resorts, and a few other Italian destinations like Capri or the Amalfi Coast are strong contenders too. But this special body of water has the edge for me: the grand stately villas, the perfectly manicured gardens, the sexy little vintage speedboats that ferry immaculately dressed people across the water. Its close proximity to ultra-stylish fashion and design capital Milan has contributed to the associated glitz and prestige, and has shaped the crowd that generally gravitates here.
The Milanese have been escaping to Como’s cooler climes during the summer for centuries, and the city’s wealthy families commissioned the palatial homes that still overlook the water’s edge. During the early 20th century, others started to catch on, and several purpose-built villas and palazzos were created to accommodate the growing number of visitors from across Europe and beyond.
Despite its popularity, the lake has somehow managed to retain its exclusive reputation, and for decades it’s been renowned as a celebrity playground—names like Donatella Versace, Richard Branson, and Madonna are all supposed to own property here. Every local I met was quick to remind me that George Clooney has a house on Lake Como, and each had their own story or spotting of the actor at some point over the years to tell me. Events like the Concorso d'Eleganza, a vintage car show hosted annually at Villa d’Este that first brought me to Lake Como in 2015, have also bolstered the area’s reputation as a decadent destination.
Lake Como’s geography is defined by its long, narrow shape, and is by-and-large divided into its western and eastern shores. The town of Como sits at the southern-most end, closest to Milan and Malpensa airport, then small villages—including their handful of luxury hotels—are sprinkled up the steep mountain slopes on either side of the water. Narrow winding roads and a complicated network of ferries connect these hamlets, but zig-zagging across the lake on public vessels can be slightly tricky, which I discovered first-hand. I was invited to an event in Torno (east) while staying in Tremezzo (west), but it was near impossible to find an easy ferry route to get there, and driving by car would’ve taken well over an hour. Another instance in life when having my own boat could’ve solved all my problems in that moment.
Grand Hotel Tremezzo
Celebrating its 115th season this year, Grand Hotel Tremezzo (GHT going forward) is celebrated as the old lady of the lake. But she’s the elegantly dressed older lady wearing a Brunello Cucinelli suit, adorned with a gorgeous silk scarf, and still wearing heels while riding her Vespa. If she ever lost her charm at any point during her long lifespan, there’s certainly no evidence of that today. And she’s never short of visitors, whether they’re hotel guests, or those coming to dine at the restaurants or drink at the bars in equally chic attire.
GHT was the first purpose-built hotel on Lake Como, and still holds a reputation as one of its finest. For 50 years it has been owned and operated by the De Santis family, who also run another regional favorite: Passalacqua (which we’ll get to another time). The family, and namely CEO Valentina De Santis, clearly take great pride in the property, both as a historical landmark and vibrant modern gathering place. Balancing the old-world glamor that’s in keeping with the building and the contemporary flair of the outdoor spaces is executed perfectly, so the spaces feel neither stuffy nor inappropriate.
Once I’d arrived, it quickly became evident that GHT is a “see and be seen” spot, and many visitors would show up throughout the days and nights in their finery to revel in the setting. The hotel guests themselves were a mix of British newlyweds on their honeymoons, older American couples, and groups of friends or young families from Europe and the Middle East—at least while I was staying there. Apart from the staff, there were no Italians to be found, perhaps because it was too early in the season?
Architecture & Design
Like a Wes Anderson fantasy, GHT is housed within a pastel-hued, perfectly symmetrical Art Nouveau building that’s quite the lakefront landmark. While the titular property in Anderson’s 2014 movie The Grand Budapest Hotel was allegedly modeled on a combination of the Grandhotel Pupp and the Hotel Bristol Palace in Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic, GHT could have easily served an understudy for its exterior. Butter-yellow paintwork is spread deliciously between the gaps in ornate stone detailing across the upper levels, while the lower floors open onto terraces either side of a plant-covered imperial staircase.
Inside, rich red and ochre decor, dark-wood furniture, gilded picture frames, and over-the-top drapery all create a theatrical environment fit for the setting. From the forecourt, an antique-mirrored tunnel to an elevator takes guests up to the second-floor lobby. The doors open to palatial reception lounge, which connects to several equally opulent “salas” housing the dining and drinking areas. A grand staircase straight ahead then leads up to the back gardens and Flowers Pool area, then the guest rooms and suites (also accessible by more elevators).
One of the hotel’s defining features is its “water on water” swimming pool, which extends out into the lake directly in front of the hotel (across a busy street). The bright turquoise of the pool contrasts the lake’s deep blue, while speedboats zip around the perimeter and an umbrella-covered terrace forms a backdrop. In all, it’s a picture-perfect spot (and an idea that several other Lake Como hotels have employed, too).
Speaking of umbrellas, GHT’s signature color—a dazzling and suitably Aperol-adjacent orange—really packs a punch across the hotel’s shading devices, as well as awnings, chair and lounger upholstery, towels, menus… You get the idea. I talked about the power of a bold brand hue in the previous issue on Eden Rock, and it’s employed just as effectively here. Mixed in equal parts with white, its the perfect counterpart to the mountain greenery and lake-water blues, and makes ordering an Aperol Spritz from any of the hotel bars almost mandatory. While GHT has no formal partnership with the brand, a collaboration of some kind must be on the horizon in the near future. Surely?!
Guest Rooms
Flicking through the hotel’s website, it’s evident that the majority of the rooms and suites are as lavishly appointed as the public spaces (I didn’t see any other than my own). Their number was decreased this year from 84 to 80, to allow for more in the larger suite category, which includes the Rooftop Corner Suite that I stayed in. These have a more contemporary aesthetic than the other rooms, while still aligned with the prevalent opulent decor—just a little more pared back, which I appreciated.
The Bellagio Corner Suite comprises a cozy olive-green bedroom, next to a sizable marble-lined bathroom arranged around a central, two-sided double vanity and a tub beneath the window overlooking the lake. A corridor leads to a separate, also green living room with sofas and a television, which opens onto a gorgeous roof terrace. This is the highlight of the suite by far, with wraparound views of the botanical gardens at neighboring Villa Carlotta, and a sweeping lake vista that encompasses the village of Bellagio on the opposite shore and the snow-capped mountains behind. Even better, the terrace has a personal jacuzzi designed for sipping champagne in (there was a bottle waiting for me on arrival) and gazing out across the water.
Eating & Drinking
GHT has multiple dining options, so we’ll start from the morning service and move through the day. Breakfast is served at La Terrazza, which, surprise surprise, occupies a covered terrace overlooking the lake on the hotel’s lobby level. An absolutely gorgeous buffet spread laid out inside has a very diverse offering, but is particularly geared towards pastry lovers (guilty!), while an a la carte menu is also available. The cappuccinos are 90 percent foam, so I had two per morning to get enough actual coffee inside me, and the fresh orange juice is beautifully sharp.
Lunch option one is T Pizza, located beside the Flowers Pool at the back of the property, where the Naples-trained “pizzaioli” cook up top-notch fare in the wood-burning oven (best enjoyed on a lounger with a Peroni, if you ask me). The alternative for lunch is Da Giacomo Al Lago, the stunning spot that occupies the lido-style waterside deck across the road from the hotel entrance. A collaboration with Milanese favorite, Da Giacomo, this seafood-forward menu is a pescatarian dream. I personally preferred this spot for sunset aperitivo, for which of course I ordered several Aperol Spritzes and watched the boats pass by. The restaurant also offers a dinner menu from May to September, for which I was too early.
For dinner, L’Escale Trattoria and Wine Bar is the more casual but still sophisticated option, rustling up traditional local dishes like cacio e pepe, which is made table-side within a giant parmesan wheel. There’s the option to dine al fresco with a lake view, but April was still a little chilly after the sun went down, so the vaulted cellar-style interior was a better alternative. Meanwhile, the fine-dining restaurant, La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi (in the same space as breakfast) is the only one in the world exclusively authorized to serve original recipes by chef Gualtiero Marchesi, who’s considered the founding father of modern Italian cuisine.
And if you’re looking for a digestivo or a night cap, the bartenders at T Bar on the lobby level can mix up a Negroni (or whatever you want really) to be sipped under the soaring ceilings of the colorful Sala Musica. Bellissimo!
Amenities & Activities
The hotel’s grounds trace up the steep slope behind the main building, where various loggias, the tennis courts, and several intimate seating areas are connected by winding pathways that snake through the greenery. At the highest point is a statue of a wooden bear, which I hiked up to while waiting for my suite to be ready wearing entirely the wrong outfit and carrying a heavy bag. I would strongly advise against this. The steep incline and rough gravel was tough going (I hid the bag halfway up) but the view was worth it, so do it, but only when you’re prepared.
GHT’s boutique, Sense of Lake, is located in a charming outbuilding and sells all sorts of chic merchandise: from branded illustrated duffel bags and silk scarves, to resort wear by luxe fashion retailers, including some exclusive collabs (I’m not allowed to share this season’s yet). Though I didn’t get a chance to enjoy the spa or use the gym, I did poke my head in the newly renovated indoor infinity pool, which is one level down from the lobby and would’ve be the perfect spot to come if the weather had been bad (thankfully it wasn’t).
The activity highlight of my trip was a private boat tour aboard the Ruy, one of two vintage speedboats owned by GHT for guest charters. The beauty of Lake Como is truly best experienced from the water; cruising over the gentle waves past the lavish villas and jaw-dropping landscapes is enough to make anyone feel like a movie star. Tours can be customized depending on the passengers’ interests—I’ve outlined the two stops we made below.
Villa del Balbianello
Our very fabulous boat tour stopped at one of the area’s most impressive villas—both for its location at the end of a peninsula, and for its stepped layout of connected loggias and rooms surrounded by perfectly manicured landscaping. Villa del Balbianello is recognizable from Star Wars: Episode II - Attack of the Clones, as the Naboo lakeside retreat where Padmé Amidala and Anakin Skywalker escape to and marry, as well as the hospital where James Bond recovers in Casino Royale.
Arrival by boat to the tiny, steep, and slippery dock is slightly precarious, so take care embarking and disembarking. There was also a holding pattern for boats attempting to drop off and pick up passengers as we were trying to leave, though our captain shrewdly snuck us on before larger parties. It’s also possible to access the villa by road, if boats aren’t your thing.
We didn’t have time to tour the interiors, but peering through the windows revealed a wildly eclectic array of pieces collected by its last owner, explorer Guido Monzino, during his global expeditions. We did explore the gardens, but the steep, narrow, and winding pathways were packed with visitors taking selfies or group pictures where there wasn’t really space to do so. We weaved around them as best we could. I later discovered that private tours can be booked in the evenings, so if I were to return, or recommend to others, this would be the move. Alternatively, get invited to an event or a wedding here!
La Velarca
An additional stop on my boat tour was… another boat! Not just any boat, this stunner of a vessel is a house boat designed in 1959 by Studio BBPR for the Norsa family as a summer retreat. Named La Velarca, the boat was gifted by the family to the Italian heritage association, FAI-Fondo per l'Ambiente Italiano, and painstakingly restored over the past 22 years. It’s now permanently moored in Ossuccio, a few miles south-west of Tremezzo, and can be boarded and explored for a small fee.
For design nerds like myself, this vessel was particularly impressive. The lines and finishes of the wood, the strategic layout of the beds (there’s so many!) on the lower level, the amazing 1960s kitchen, and the blue and orange upholstery details—everything was executed immaculately. After spotting a strategically placed bottle of Campari in the stairwell, I could imagine the family picnicking and drinking their Negronis as they sailed up and down the lake, anchoring to swim or explore the many villages. What a dreamy way to spend a summer.
Bellagio
Everyone told me to visit Bellagio while on this trip (well, like five people did). Plus, I’d been gazing at the village across the water from my terrace for two days, so I felt obliged to go for the afternoon. A 20-minute ferry ride from Tremezzo—the dock was less than a five-minute walk from the hotel, outside Villa Carlota—the town sits on the peninsula where Lake Como meets Lake Lecco, so it boasts wraparound water vistas.
It’s a charming little place, with steep cobbled streets, compact restaurant terraces, and small boutiques mostly selling shoes and silk. I’d been hunting for a scarf or pocket square for an upcoming wedding, so I was thrilled to spot one in the exact colors I was looking for in one of the windows, and snatched it straight off the display. Bellagio’s problem, however, was that it was packed with tourists to the point of being unpleasant—I’ve only ever experienced this volume of slow-moving, unaware-of-everyone-else people before in Santorini, where I hid in my hotel until the rush died down in the evenings for the most part.
Also, while arriving on the ferry was a breeze, leaving was not. The throngs of tourists were all confused about where to purchase tickets, which lines to join for the right boat, and when said boats were arriving, and none of them were being polite about it. The whole time I kept thinking to myself: “It’s only April, imagine what this would be like in the summer!” So in all I was there for less than two hours, and was very relieved when I disembarked back in Tremezzo, away from the crowds. Don’t get me wrong, I’m fully supportive of everyone having their own opportunity to experience a taste of La Dolce Vita. But, for me at least, this lifestyle can only really be enjoyed with a generous helping of personal space.
Thank Yous
The biggest and most heartfelt thank you to Delia Facchini, who took so much time to be my tour guide, treated me to a wonderful dinner, and made sure the champagne was flowing during our boat ride. And thank you to our captain, Carlo, for transporting us across the water not only safely, but in style. Thank you to Katie Sutherland at Perowne International for first connecting me with Delia over a spritz in the West Village, and to Danielle Murdock at J/PR for the invitation to GHT, and for organizing my itinerary and transfers. Thanks to Horacio Silva for being an unexpected but very welcome cocktail companion (and thanks also to David Graver for that intro!). And grazie mille to the wonderful lady who serviced my room, who told me that I was a very clean and tidy guest, and that I can come back any time. I will! D x